So, I've decided to take advantage of my current stint in the med unit (once again and, hopefully, one and for all!) to do a little one year marker post...I've haven't quite reached one year yet, but it's getting pretty close believe it or not. I don't always know that I believe it. It's really gone by fast...at least in retrospect...but even in real time too most of the time.
I'd like to start with a universal HAPPY BIRTHDAY for all the birthdays in the past year that I may have missed. I tried to keep up, but it's amazing how a lack of seasons as I know it can really mess with my sense of time. I promise to try to be better this year. Now that I'm adjusted, I shouldn't have any excuses...aside from lack of phone network--so, don't expect any well wishes to come promptly...but I'll really try to make them come.
Also, thank you for all of the letters, e-mails, phone calls, and care packages. They've saved me from the temporarily overwhelming wallows of my soul at times. lol. And, it's a fact, I have every card, picture, and knick knack sent still decorating the walls and shelves of my house. I even still have the Christmas decorations up! Every letter has been saved, read, and re-read. So, it's no small joke-- thank you.
I've reached and surpassed by first big mile marker in my stay here in Ghana. I had been thinking about my sister's visit since day one. Since before day one, really. And, I don't believe it's a lie to say that I thought about it on days one through 308 (now that's a rough estimate) too. And, as most of you know, her visit has come and gone! And it was definitely the mile-stone I expected it to be-- at least in terms of significance. Though, I don't think I ever knew exactly what to expect--nor did I really expect exactly what occured. I spend a lot of my time here explaining-- explaining my life back in the States-- my family, my friends, college, grocery stores, cities, suburbs, snow, religions, races, foods, states, dating, etc., etc. I often explain myself, my beliefs, and where I come from to even my closest friends who I've already explained myself, my beliefs, and my home to on a number of occassions. My landlord always tells he wouldn't believe the things I say about my life and home if someone else had told him, and so I think he asks me the same questions over and over again just to double check my facts--make sure I'm really not making any of it up. lol. And, while I love explaining, those who know me know I'm more than a slight introvert. So, always explaining myself and my decisions, while constantly keeping me self-aware, can also be very exhausting and overwhelming. Fair enough. I think I've figured out my coping routine by now. But, I guess, what I hadn't really come to realize until my sister's arrival was how much MORE explaining would have to be done. I think I speak for most PCVs when I say--well, maybe I just think of for myself lol...that's safer---ANYWAY, I speak for myself when I say, most of my homesickness and founded in a desire for my comfort zone, where I fit in, go unnoticed, flourish as a hermit, and never really have to explain anything about myself because no one really cares or, if they care, they already know. So, when a bit of home comes across the Atlantic, I guess I was expecting a piece of my comfort zone-- maybe even a week of comfort zonal bliss lol. But, understandably so, there was a ton of explaining to do about most everything-- what I eat, what I buy, how I bathe, where I go to the bathroom, how I sleep with roosters living in my house, etc., etc. I think, by the end of the visit, we got to that comfort zone--probably even half-way through. But the first few days were incredibly overwhelming for me. I didn't want to explain. I just wanted Jen to see and understand--everything. Obviously that's unrealistic, but that's me. My favorite moment of the whole visit, however-- when I really think we reached the brink of my return to normalization (word?) was when Jen and I were about to go to bed at our last destination (Busua Beach), and I said, "Want to play Egyptian War?" and she said, "Yeah! It's been a long time since we've played that one!" I pause for a moment, trying to remember that last time, before I realize and then say, "Of course it has. We haven't been together in a year." I'd forgotten. So, I think my sister's visit--my first milestone and almost one year marker-- gave me a glimpse of what returning home may be like-- alittle overwhelming, perhaps a little lonely-feeling at first...However, now I know when I get home, it's my sister who will be the one (it could be you too, if you come and visit! : ) ) who know's who and what I'm talking about when I'm telling stories about my time here in Ghana. And that seems like a good deal to me.
I had another "one year marker"-esque moment of awareness right before my sister's visit too...The past few months have been very hectic and filled with travelling for me-- between training a new group of volunteers and falling sick on more occassions than I'd prefer. I had two drama projects about malaria and smorgasboard of "life skills" with my students hanging over my head that just never seemed to come off on any of the many re-scheduled dates. Now, I've become pretty accustomed to this and try not to let it define my as a person lol, but I was started to get a bit antsy. The school term had ended and I just wanted to get them over with, so that we could start on new projects when school resumed. No life force really cared what I wanted-- per usual and probably fair. But, eventually, myself and two friends and/or co-workers that I was working on the projects with decided to just force it and call it a day. The idea was for the students to learn about marlaria prevention, hiv/aids prevention, hygeine habits, study skills, and saving/budgeting, create their own dramas on the topics, and perform them for the community to show off what they learned and share their knowledge with their parents/families/community members. It rained all day. And anybody who knows Ghana knows nothing happens in the rain, which makes natural sense. But Solomon, Philip, and I were defying Ghana and nature on this day. Out of necessity. Or desperation. Or exhaustion. Of course, Ghana and nature laughed in our faces. The students were so excited they waited around all day and had no qualms about performing in the rain. And really no qualms about performing to a non-existent audience--because no community members showed up...well, one guy did. And my sanity is forever indebted to him, though I'll probably never know Konkomba well enough to explain that to him. It was a competition. I forgot to mention that. So, I'm sitting there, getting rained on, scoring my students who are getting rained on while they perform. And, I just keep telling myself that we at least succeeded in educating the students. Their dramas were wonderful. Even some of the younger, less vocal ones really stepped up. Sooo, so what if they weren't able to bestow their knowledge on anyway else. Half the goal was achieved! Half a success is still a success! It's like milk in a glass-- it's half full! These are the things I'm telling myself. Those who know me well, know I must have been incredibly frustration, irritated, and mad at myself during this moment in time and space. I was. Borderline furious at some ambiguous entity that began to manifest itself in everyone and everything. I wanted to cry. Good thing it was raining...
So, it all went off. The students performed. We announced a winner in a private little party of other students, myself, my two collaborators, and one community member. We dranks minerals and ate biscuits. And, I went home to cleanse my soul of pain and feelings of failure, trying to remember all those sayings about the youth as our future etc. etc. My friend Solo followed me home, and we hung out for a bit. As he was about to go he turned to me and said, "What you are doing with those students is really great. Before you and Allison (my predecessor and love) came to work with them, they couldn't speak like that in public. They didn't have confidence like that, and they couldn't speak English so fluently. So, thank you. God shall bless you for that."
Before you start thing that this is turning into a personal ego-stroke session, though I do think Solo's comments did save my ego from extinction-- or temporary extinction, to be less dramatic. The real moment of awareness came in his comment about English fluency. I actually usually request that the students speak in Konkomba when they perform. They usually beg to speak in English, and whether I agree or not, they speak in English when they get up there-- and I run around in the last moments looking for a translator lol. I really struggle with deciphering cultural evolution from cultural death sometimes. Particularly here, where I try to be completely and utterly cultural non-domineering. Try. I haven't quite figured out if that's an attainable goal yet, but I'm staying optimistic. Anyway, the cold hard facts are that English fluency is a valued asset in Ghana. It's a marker of education and potential for affluence. More people speak English in Ghana's more developed regions. In it's lesser developed regions, fewer people speak English. The stereotypes ensue. They're not really stereotypes. They're just a reality. If my students want to go to high school, training college, university, etc. If they want to get jobs and change their economic standing, their social standing-- They have to speak English, and they have to speak it well. I don't know exactly how I feel about that; my feelings waver with my mood, the day, the moon...I'm not very good at being realistic. Or practical. I don't really care for it. But this is not about me or my life. It's about my students and their lives (now you can really hear the dramatic instrumentals in the background, yeah?).
Anyway, all I'm saying is, it was a moment of awareness or atonement with the cultural reality here. Perhaps, one might say, if they were meandering about such a PhD dissertation topic, as I might be, a post-colonial cultural reality. "We can never go back to before." That a line from a song in a one-woman musical called An American in New York that debuted starring my best friend Maggie. Kidding....sort of...it's from some musical that I don't know, but Maggie would know, because she did sing it in An American in New York....This whole half of the paragraph has probably only been mildly humorous for a sole reader-- Maggie. My apologies.
Now, this is a marathon entry if we've every seen one, yeah? Well, here's to the year-- almost! I think one of the hardest realizations has been that life goes on for all of you even when I'm not there. lol. Now, obviously, I knew that it would. But, that doesn't mean that I understood what it would feel like. So many of my life's VIPs have fallen in love, fallen sick, engaged, married, birthed children, graduated, died. Everday I think about you, and I try to re-assess whether I've made the right decision in being here. Living in a culture that values family so strongly, I often wonder what in the world I was thinking when I decided to leave mine. My only answer-- I am coming back. Soon--ish. 15 months-- ish. I think, perhaps, the other harderst realization (so many hard realizations--whatever that means) was that my life would go on too. That I would feel so dramatically changed as a person some days, and none of those VIPs would be there to know it. Luckily, I've found some new VIPs to add to my currently distant aged (like wine) VIPs. And, luckily, 98% of my life is far less dramatic than this paragraph. Thank something divine for that. : )
So, happy almost one year! Cheers!